It may be Sweden's second city, but Gothenburg is Scandinavia's Christmas capital. In December, its tree-lined avenues are decked out with 5 million fairy lights, and hundreds of market stands sell handicrafts, roast chestnuts and goblets of glögg, a potent mulled wine that does wonders against the Nordic chill. There's more to this city of 490,000, though, than street markets and stocking fillers. Home to one of the largest student populations in Europe, this young, stylish metropolis is crowded with cutting-edge fashion and design stores. And its thriving culinary scene — the Swedish Chef of the Year award has gone to...